Dab tsi yog jacquard ntaub?

Lub ntsiab txhais ntawm jacquard ntaub

Jacquard fabric weaving los ntawm lub tshuab siv ob los yog ntau xim yarns ncaj qha weaves complex qauv rau hauv ntaub, thiab cov ntaub uas tsim muaj yeeb yuj qauv los yog designs.Jacquard ntaub yog txawv ntawm cov txheej txheem ntawm cov ntaub ntawv luam tawm, uas yuav tsum tau weaving ua ntej, thiab tom qab ntawd ntxiv lub logo.

Keeb kwm ntawm jacquard fabrics

Lub predecessor ntawm jacquardntaub

Tus thawj ntawm jacquard ntaub yog Brocade, ib tug txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntaub uas originated nyob rau hauv lub Zhou Dynasty ntawm Tuam Tshoj (10th mus rau 2nd centuries ua ntej lub tiaj ua si), muaj yeeb yuj qauv thiab paub tab.Lub sijhawm no, kev tsim cov ntaub npuag tau khaws cia zais cia los ntawm Suav, thiab tsis muaj kev paub txog pej xeem.Nyob rau hauv Han Dynasty (95 xyoo nyob rau hauv lub tiaj ua si), Suav Brocade qhia Persia (tam sim no Iran) thiab Daqin (ncig Roman faj tim teb chaws) los ntawm txoj kev Silk Road.

Los ntawm Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design MuseumCC0, Txuas

Han Brocade: Tsib hnub qub tawm ntawm sab hnub tuaj kom muaj txiaj ntsig rau Tuam Tshoj

Byzantine historians tau pom tias los ntawm 4th mus rau 6th centuries, tapestry ntau lawm nyob rau hauv txhob lo lo ntxhuav, nrog linen thiab wool yog lub ntsiab fabrics.Nws yog nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 6th uas ib khub ntawm cov hauj sam coj cov lus zais ntawm sericulture - txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntau lawm - mus rau Byzantine huab tais.Yog li ntawd, Western kab lis kev cai tau kawm yuav ua li cas yug, yug thiab pub silkworms.Txij thaum ntawd los, Byzantium tau dhau los ua tus tsim khoom loj tshaj plaws thiab tseem ceeb tshaj plaws nyob rau sab hnub poob ntiaj teb, ua ntau yam ntawm cov qauv ntaub, nrog rau brocades, damasks, brocatelles, thiab tapestry-zoo li fabrics.

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Thaum lub sij hawm Renaissance, lub complexity ntawm Italian txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntaub kho kom zoo nkauj tau nce (hais kom tau txhim kho txhob lo lo ntxhuav looms), thiab cov complexity thiab siab zoo ntawm luxurious silk fabrics ua rau ltalis qhov tseem ceeb thiab zoo tshaj plaws silk fabrics nyob rau hauv cov teb chaws Europe.

Lub invention ntawm lub jacquard loom

Ua ntej invention ntawm Jacquard loom, Brocade yog lub sij hawm-siv los tsim vim hais tias ntawm intricate fabric decoration.Yog li ntawd, cov ntaub no tau raug nqi thiab tsuas yog muaj rau cov nom tswv thiab cov neeg nplua nuj.

Xyoo 1804 Yauxej Marie Jacquard tau tsim lub 'Jacquard tshuab,' ib lub tshuab xaws uas ua kom yooj yim rau kev tsim cov ntaub ntawv zoo nkauj xws li Brocade, damask, thiab matelassé.Ib "chain of cards tswj lub tshuab."ntau daim npav punched yog laced ua ke rau hauv ib ntus.Ntau lub qhov yog xuas nrig ntaus ntawm txhua daim npav, nrog rau ib daim npav ua tiav sib raug rau ib kab tsim.Qhov no mechanism yog tej zaum ib qho tseem ceeb tshaj plaws weaving nrhav, raws li Jacquard shedding ua tau lub automatic ntau lawm ntawm unlimited ntau yam ntawm complex qauv weaving.

Los ntawm CC BY-SA 4.0, Txuas

Jacquard loom's invention tau pab txhawb rau kev lag luam textile.Cov txheej txheem Jacquard thiab qhov tsim nyog loom txuas yog muaj npe tom qab lawv tus neeg tsim khoom.Lo lus 'jacquard' tsis yog tshwj xeeb lossis txwv rau ib qho tshwj xeeb loom tab sis yog hais txog kev tswj hwm ntxiv uas ua rau tus qauv siv.Cov ntaub tsim los ntawm hom loom no tuaj yeem hu ua 'jacquard fabrics.Lub invention ntawm lub tshuab jacquard ho nce cov zis ntawm jacquard fabrics.Txij thaum ntawd los, jacquard fabrics tau mus txog lub neej ntawm cov neeg zoo tib yam.

Jacquard fabrics hnub no

Jacquard looms tau hloov pauv ntau xyoo.Nrog rau kev tsim kho lub computer, Jacquard loom txav deb ntawm kev siv cov ntawv xuas nrig ntaus.Hauv qhov sib piv, Jacquard looms ua haujlwm los ntawm cov khoos phis tawj.Cov looms siab heev no hu ua computerized Jacquard looms.Tus tsim qauv tsuas yog yuav tsum ua kom tiav cov ntaub qauv tsim los ntawm software thiab tsim cov kev ua haujlwm loom sib xws los ntawm lub computer.Lub tshuab computer jacquard tuaj yeem ua tiav cov khoom.Cov tib neeg tsis tas yuav ua cov txheej txheem ntawm punched phaib rau txhua tus qauv tsim, txo qhov xav tau ntawm kev siv cov lus qhia thiab ua rau cov txheej txheem jacquard fabrics ntau dua thiab siv tau zoo.

Cov txheej txheem ntau lawm ntawm jacquard ntaub

Tsim & Programming

Thaum peb tau txais cov ntaub ntawv tsim, peb thawj zaug yuav tsum tau hloov nws mus rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv tsim tawm uas lub computer jacquard loom tuaj yeem lees paub thiab tom qab ntawd hloov kho cov ntaub ntawv kev pab cuam los tswj kev ua haujlwm ntawm lub computer jacquard tshuab kom tiav cov ntaub ntau lawm.

Xim txuam

Txhawm rau tsim cov ntaub raws li tsim, koj yuav tsum siv cov yarns xim kom raug rau cov ntaub.Yog li peb cov neeg pleev xim yuav tsum xaiv qee cov xov paj uas phim cov xim tsim los ntawm ntau txhiab tus xov thiab tom qab ntawd sib piv cov xim zoo sib xws nrog cov xim tsim ib los ntawm ib qho kom txog rau thaum cov xov uas zoo tshaj plaws haum rau cov xim tsim tau xaiv —— Sau cov xov tooj sib xws.Cov txheej txheem no yuav siv sijhawm ntev thiab kev paub dhau los.

Kev npaj xov paj

Raws li tus xov tooj xov tooj muab los ntawm colorist, peb tus neeg saib xyuas lub tsev khaws khoom tuaj yeem nrhiav tau cov xov paj sib xws.Yog tias cov khoom lag luam tsis txaus, peb tuaj yeem yuav tam sim lossis kho cov xov paj xav tau.Los xyuas kom meej cov ntaub uas tsim nyob rau hauv tib batch tsis muaj xim txawv.Thaum npaj cov xov paj, peb xaiv cov xov paj ua nyob rau hauv tib batch rau txhua xim.Yog tias tus naj npawb ntawm cov xov paj hauv ib pawg tsis txaus, peb yuav rov yuav ib pawg ntawm Xov Paj.Thaum cov ntaub tsim tawm, peb siv tag nrho cov khoom tshiab ntawm cov xov paj, tsis sib tov ob pawg ntawm Xov Paj rau ntau lawm.

 jacquard ntaub raw khoom yarn

Jacquard fabric weaving

Thaum tag nrho cov xov paj npaj txhij, cov xov paj yuav txuas mus rau lub tshuab jacquard rau kev tsim khoom, thiab cov xov paj ntawm cov xim sib txawv yuav txuas nrog rau hauv ib qho kev txiav txim tshwj xeeb.Tom qab importing cov ntaub ntawv khiav haujlwm, lub tshuab computer jacquard yuav ua kom tiav cov ntaub ntawv tsim.

Jacquard ntaub kho mob

Tom qab cov ntaub yog woven, nws yuav tsum tau kho los ntawm lub cev thiab tshuaj txoj kev los txhim kho nws softness, abrasion tsis kam, dej tsis kam, xim ceev, thiab lwm yam khoom ntawm cov ntaub.

Jacquard Fabric Inspection

Jacquard Fabric Inspection Tom qab ua tiav ntawm cov ntaub, tag nrho cov txheej txheem tsim khoom tiav.Tab sis yog tias cov ntaub xav tau kev xa mus rau cov neeg siv khoom, kev tshuaj xyuas zaum kawg ntawm cov ntaub kuj yuav tsum tau ua kom ntseeg tau tias:

  1. Cov ntaub yog tiaj tsis muaj creases.
  2. Cov ntaub yog tsis weft oblique.
  3. cov xim yog tib yam li tus thawj.
  4. Tus qauv loj yog lawm

Cov yam ntxwv ntawm jacquard ntaub

Qhov zoo ntawm jacquard ntaub

1. Cov style ntawm jacquard ntaub yog tshiab thiab zoo nkauj, thiab nws kov tsis sib xws;2. Jacquard fabrics muaj xim nplua nuj heev.Cov qauv sib txawv tuaj yeem woven raws li ntau lub hauv paus ntaub, tsim cov xim sib txawv.Txhua tus tuaj yeem pom lawv cov kev nyiam thiab cov qauv tsim.3. Jacquard ntaub yog ib qho yooj yim rau kev saib xyuas, thiab nws yog ib qho yooj yim rau hnav nyob rau hauv lub neej txhua hnub, thiab nws kuj muaj cov yam ntxwv ntawm lightness, softness, thiab breathability.4. Tsis zoo li cov qauv luam tawm thiab stamped, jacquard fabric weave qauv yuav tsis ploj los yog fray koj cov khaub ncaws.

Disadvantages ntawm jacquard ntaub

1. Vim yog cov qauv tsim ntawm qee cov Jacquard Fabrics, Weft Density ntawm cov ntaub yog qhov siab heev, uas yuav txo cov huab cua permeability ntawm cov ntaub.2. Kev tsim thiab tsim cov ntaub ntawm jacquard yog qhov nyuaj, thiab tus nqi kuj tseem siab ntawm cov ntaub ntawm tib yam khoom.

Classification ntawm jacquard fabrics

 

Brocade

Los ntawm Unknown Suav weaver.Duab los ntawm gallery.Txuas

Brocade tsuas muaj tus qauv ntawm ib sab, thiab sab nraud tsis muaj qauv.Brocade yog ntau yam: · 1.Cov ntaub pua rooj.Brocade yog qhov zoo heev rau cov rooj teeb, xws li cov ntaub so ntswg, ntaub pua rooj, thiab ntaub pua rooj.Brocade yog cov hniav zoo nkauj tsis tau ntev thiab muaj peev xwm tiv taus kev siv txhua hnub ·2.Khaub ncaws.Brocade yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws rau kev ua khaub ncaws, xws li cov tsho trim lossis cov ris tsho yav tsaus ntuj.Txawm hais tias cov ntaub hnyav tsis muaj tib lub drape li lwm cov ntaub hnyav, qhov ruaj khov tsim cov qauv silhouette.· 3.Khoom siv.Brocade kuj muaj npe nrov rau kev zam accessories xws li phuam qhwv caj dab thiab hnab tes.Cov qauv zoo nkauj thiab cov ntaub ntom ntom ua rau qhov zoo nkauj zoo nkauj rau cov lus hais.· 4.Tsev kho kom zoo nkauj.Brocade cades tau dhau los ua lub tsev dai kom zoo nkauj rau lawv cov qauv tsim ntxim nyiam.Brocade durability ua rau nws zoo tagnrho rau upholstery thiab drapes.

 

提花面料-7 Los ntawm CC BY-SA 3.0, Linkki

Brocatelle

 

Brocatelle zoo ib yam li Brocade nyob rau hauv uas nws muaj ib tug qauv ntawm ib sab, tsis yog rau lwm yam.Cov ntaub no feem ntau muaj cov qauv tsim ntau dua li Brocade, uas muaj qhov tshwj xeeb tsa, puffed nto.Brocatelle feem ntau hnyav dua thiab ruaj khov dua li Brocade.Brocatelle feem ntau yog siv rau cov khaub ncaws kev cai thiab qib siab, xws li suits, dresses, thiab lwm yam.

提花面料-8 By CC0, LinkDamask

Damask designs characterizes lub hauv paus thiab cov qauv xim yog thim rov qab rau pem hauv ntej.Damask feem ntau yog qhov sib txawv thiab ua nrog satin xov rau kev xav zoo.Cov khoom kawg yog cov khoom siv khoom kim heev thim rov qab uas muaj ntau yam.Damask npuag feem ntau yog siv thiab tsim hauv Hnav Hnav, Cov Khaub Ncaws, Tsho Tsho, thiab Tsho.

提花面料-9 Los ntawm https://www.momu.be/collectie/studiecollectie.html / Duab los ntawm Stany Dederen, CC BY-SA 4.0, Txuas

 

Matelassé

Matelassé (tseem hu ua ob daim ntaub) yog kev tshoov siab los ntawm Fab Kis cov txheej txheem uas muab cov ntaub quilted lossis padded saib.Ntau cov ntaub quilted tuaj yeem paub txog ntawm jacquard loom thiab tsim los ua qauv ntawm tes xaws lossis quilting.Matelassé fabrics yog tsim rau cov ntaub npog zoo nkauj, pov hauv ncoo, txaj pw, ntaub npog, duvets, thiab pillowcases.Nws kuj yog siv dav hauv txaj txaj thiab menyuam txaj txaj.

 

 

 

提花面料-10 By <CC0, Link

Tapestry

Nyob rau hauv niaj hnub terminology, "Tapestry" yog hais txog ib tug ntaub woven ntawm ib tug jacquard loom rau mimic historic tapestries."Tapestry" yog ib lo lus tsis meej heev, tab sis nws piav qhia txog cov ntaub hnyav nrog ntau cov xim sib txawv.Tapestry kuj muaj cov xim sib txawv ntawm sab nraub qaum (piv txwv li, ib daim ntaub nrog nplooj ntsuab rau hauv av liab yuav muaj nplooj liab rov qab rau hauv av ntsuab) tab sis yog tuab, tawv, thiab hnyav dua li damask.Tapestry feem ntau yog woven nrog cov xov paj tuab dua li Brocade lossis Damask.Tapestry Rau tsev kho kom zoo nkauj: rooj zaum, hauv ncoo, thiab quav ntaub.

 

 

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Cloque

Cloque ntaub muaj ib tug tsa weave qauv thiab ib tug pleated los yog quilted saib.Qhov saum npoo yog tsim los ntawm irregularly tsa me me duab tsim los ntawm cov qauv weaving.Cov ntaub jacquard no yog tsim txawv dua li lwm yam jacquard fabrics nyob rau hauv uas nws yog tsim los ntawm ib tug shrinking txheej txheem.Lub ntuj fibers nyob rau hauv cov ntaub shrinks thaum lub sij hawm tsim khoom, ua rau cov khoom yuav tsum tau them nyob rau hauv blister-zoo li pob.Cloque gowns thiab cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj feem ntau siv rau ntau lub sijhawm thiab cov xwm txheej yog tsim los ntawm cov ntaub no thiab yog cov ntaub ntawv zoo heev thiab muaj kuab heev.Nws yog elegant thiab exudes sophistication uas tsis muaj lwm yam khoom yuav phim.


Post lub sij hawm: Feb-17-2023